Alex Smith
By the time that you read this it will be September and for those of us living here in Kaş the summers are nothing if not long and extended until at least the end of October by which time things begin to slow down quite dramatically. More of that though in a couple of months.
What is of much more pressing concern to the local population here is the end of Ramazan on August 29th which is celebrated with a three day holiday known as Şeker Bayram where to celebrate the end of the fasting period it is customary to offer sweets to friends and family members who visit.
More importantly those who have been fasting during daylight hours no longer have to do this and can resume regular eating patterns. This year the end of the period of fasting finishes at least a couple of weeks before the children return to school so it’s possible that Kaş will see a busy two week period for the first couple of weeks of September. That is certainly the hope of the bar and restaurant owners and all who trade here.
For the ex-pat community living out here the period of fasting has had very little effect, I’m not personally aware of any foreigners, or yabanci as the Turks call us, who are observant of the Muslim faith although now that I’ve written this I’m pretty sure that someone will indignantly surface to finger wag at me and claim to have just observed the whole fasting thing.
It’s still very much the season of visitors and many ex pat homes still resemble guest houses as friends and family members continue to revolve through the doors. In our case all visitors were dealt with in the early part of the summer and the guest house is well and truly closed unless we receive a few late bookings which is more than possible as September and October are both glorious months climate wise here and an ideal time for the European visitor to sample the delights of Kaş without having to weather the full severity of the July/August heat.
From my perspective, keen on exercise as I am, in an attempt to retain some fitness in what is a rapidly ageing body I partake of a daily swim during the summer months. I attempt to take this seriously and try and make sure that this becomes reasonably demanding. As I mentioned in a previous article, my winter pursuits of walking and cycling (certainly at sea level) are only for the lunatic fringe in the summer months. So each year when June rolls around the walking boots and mountain bike are stashed away and out come the swimming shorts for their stint in the spotlight. Living, as I do, in Gökseki there are two very good and easily accessible beaches where a decent swim can be had.
Those of you who are familiar with Kaş may well be familiar with Akçagerme and Olympus beaches. Both are west of Kaş and can be easily accessed by dolmuş (local bus) and for me are only a short scooter ride away. An early morning visit to Akçagerme is always recommended as it becomes very crowded as the day wears on in high season and swimming is much more difficult and much less pleasurable then. Olympus on the other hand is always less crowded and affords the opportunity of a triangular swim across the lagoon to the peninsula then across to the swimming pool at the new hotel on the marina and a return to Olympus to complete the triangle. This is a really good swim and can be challenging in more ways than one. Firstly the distance involved is reasonably substantial but secondly now that the new marina is up and running there is much more traffic passing through the lagoon; so in the absence of a fluorescent swimming cap I have to choose my times carefully. I have no wish to meet the same end as Kirsty McColl. It’s great exercise and let’s face it a marvellous environment to enjoy it in and hopefully will help to extend the period when I can still operate with one natural hip!
The longevity of the period when it is possible to take a daily swim in the sea without being ludicrously uncomfortable is impressive here. A general rule of thumb is that I will first tentatively venture in sometime in April and throw the towel in early in December. Some contrast there then from the time I clearly remember when experiencing an unusually warm, sunny Easter holiday in the English Lake District a couple of us leapt off a jetty into Lake Windermere to cool off and take a swim. We certainly cooled off and to this day after the couple of minutes of involuntary hyperventilation I experienced I have no desire to repeat the experience. Still I’m not likely to have to in the immediate future living on the shores of the Eastern Mediterranean as I do!
A final note, it was quite a bizarre experience for me to see gangs of youths on television smashing and grabbing their way through what was once the area I lived in Salford. I recognised the shopping precinct they were attacking easily as I lived at one time in a block of flats which towered (literally) above and was my vantage point when similar violence erupted in British cities in 1981 and Salford burned. I can think of few greater contrasts in my life than the environment of inner city Salford and Kaş, obviously many factors come into play here and whilst I am a realist and recognise that nowhere is Nirvana and there are issues everywhere I certainly know where I would rather be spending my time right now.
It’s too hot for a hoodie in Kaş.
